Holy Land Pilgrimage Journal (Day 16)

Friday, 27th September 2019

When we flew into Brisbane, we ordered a ride through ‘Uber’ to get from the international terminal to the motel. To our surprise, the driver was a Jordanian man who had grown up in Bethlehem in the West Bank. He also worked in Dubai before moving his family to Australia. He was so excited that we had just travelled to his homeland. We shared stories about the places we had visited and learned a bit about his family during the short trip to the motel. It really was a delightful way to end this part of our trip back to Australia. What are the chances of getting a driver from Jordan and the West Bank in Brisbane?!

Holy Land Pilgrimage Journal (Day 15)

Thursday, 26th September 2019

Today’s journal entry comes from the seat of flight EK904 from Amman to Dubai, as we begin our journey home. We left the Movenpick Hotel in Petra early to make our way up to Amman. Along the way, we stopped at Mount Nebo to visit the ‘Memorial of Moses’. From this vantage point, we looked over the Jordan Valley and could see what Moses did from the very spot that God gave Moses a glimpse of the land he would never enter. It was a surreal moment taking in the significance of such a view. It was so much more than just pretty scenery but a vision of a promise for the people of Israel.

“Then Moses climbed Mount Nebo from the plains of Moab to the top of Pisgah, across from Jericho. There the Lord showed him the whole land – from Gilead to Dan, all of Naphtali, the territory of Ephraim and Manasseh, all the land of Judah as far as the Mediterranean Sea, the Negev and the whole region from the valley of Jericho, the City of Palms, as far as Zoar. Then the Lord said to him, “This is the land I promised on oath to Abraham, Isaac and Jacob when I said, “I will give it to your descendants.” I have let you see it with your eyes, but you will not cross over into it”” (Deuteronomy 34:1-4).

What may have been a disappointment to Moses may also have been a vision of fulfilment, having completed the task God assigned to him at the burning bush. We don’t read of disappointment or resentment but of anointing and handing of the mantle of leadership to Joshua to lead the Israelites Moses had rescued from slavery into the promised land.

“Now Joshua son of Nun was filled with the spirit of wisdom because Moses had laid his hands on him. So the Israelites listened to him and did what the Lord had commanded Moses.” (Deuteronomy 34:9)

The ‘Memorial Church of Moses’, along with some impacting statues, stand as a tribute to the man who earned the epitaph, “Since then, no prophet has risen in Israel like Moses, whom the Lord knew face to face…” (Deuteronomy 34:10). The remains of the 6th century church and stunning mosaics housed in this memorial church have stood as a lasting testimony to Moses’ life and leadership on top of Mount Nebo.

From the mountaintop we descended back down into the valley to the city of Madaba to visit ‘St. George’s Mosaic Map Church’. This remarkable mosaic map of the Holy Land and surrounding regions is another example of the amazing craftsmanship of the 6th century that has been passed down through the generations to today in Jordan. The detail of this map, showing key places of biblical significance, is something to be admired and preserved for future generations.

After visiting the ‘Church of the Mosaic Map’ we all gathered at the 'Haret Jdoudna Restaurant' for our final meal together as a group of pilgrims. Over the past two weeks, we have shared a life changing pilgrimage that has taken us on a journey through the pages of Scripture to the sites where it actually happened. We have shared moments of awe and wonder, laughed and cried together, and have experienced divine encounters along the way. At the beginning of this pilgrimage, many of us were strangers, but along the way, a bond of friendship that has roots sown in a mutual experience has been formed. As we each return to our respective appointments, we will take a piece of each other’s lives with us as fellow pilgrims of the Holy Land. It has been a real joy to share this journey with Officers from around Australia that already share a common calling and covenant. It has also been a delight getting to know Officers from the former Australia Eastern Territory and travel together under the banner of the new Australia National Territory.

As we approached Amman airport in Jordan, one of our fellow pilgrims presented us each with a small crocheted cross that she had handmade during our trip as a thoughtful token of our journey in the footsteps of Jesus over the past two weeks. Therefore, I have chosen to embed this lovely gift into the pages of this journal as a permanent imprint of what this trip was all about. It’s all about Jesus!! The historic Greco-Roman culture set the environment for the birth of Jesus and the present Israel Palestinian conflict may well set the scene for the return of Jesus. In the centre of this complex political and religious region, by God’s divine providence, Jesus still remains at the heart of the Holy Land. The ‘Wailing Wall’ and the ‘Golden Dome’ pale into insignificance before the path of the cross! Even the ornate beauty of the ‘Holy Sepulchre’ falls short of the majesty of the One it represents. Walking in the ‘Footsteps of Jesus’ throughout the Holy Land was ultimately a journey towards the cross, as this was Christ’s mission for the salvation of humankind. All His teaching, miracles and encounters along the way was to fulfil His Father’s will (John 6:38).

“Oh, the wonderful cross, oh the wonderful cross

Bid me come and die and find that I may truly live.

Oh, the wonderful cross, oh the wonderful cross

All who gather here by grace, draw near and bless Your name.

Love so amazing, so divine demands my soul, my life, my all.

It’s the beauty and the shame, it’s the glory and the name

Wonderful cross.”

Holy Land Pilgrimage Journal (Day 14)

Wednesday, 25th September 2019

Our destination for today was literally over the road from our hotel. The visitor centre at the Petra Archaeological Park was a doorway to one of the ‘7 Wonders of the World’. As we descended the stony path, we were greeted by stunning sandstone cliffs that gradually revealed their secrets. This was the land of the Nabateans who carved extraordinary monuments into the surrounding cliffs to form a sophisticated society in the barren desert. Elaborately decorated rock faced tombs of the Nabateans and caves recently occupied by the Bedouins line the cliff faces. Following the contours of the ‘Siq’ (shaft) is an aqueduct channel carved into the sandstone to allow a channel of water to run down the mountain into deep cisterns to sustain this ancient civilisation in the desert. Walking through this crevice known as the ‘Siq’ was an awe-inspiring experience and a photographer’s paradise! 

Every turn opened up another stunning scene begging to be photographed. The natural colours of the sandstone against the bright blue sky with the sun piercing between the rocks was truly amazing. The further we descended the more impressive the tomb carvings became. Then we reached the famous ‘Treasury’ which was featured in the movie ‘Indiana Jones – Last Crusade’. This forty metre high façade carved into the cliff face is a magnificent, intricate rock craving from the first century that has been remarkably preserved to the present day.

Beyond this main attraction, we found the ‘High Place of Sacrifice’, a Roman style theatre that can seat 4,000 spectators, royal tombs, the church and other equally spectacular world heritage monuments from this ancient city. There was so much to take in along this promenade of historic masterpieces. Along the way, were peddlers, market stalls, donkey and camel rides and other conveniences for the large number of tourists who visit this attraction. Unlike the locations we have visited throughout this trip, the locals trying to sell their products or services actually added to the experience. It brought these static displays to life with the hustle and bustle of village life that gave some sense of how this society may have functioned. You could almost imagine the travelling caravans passing through the once vibrant community. In fact, it was just outside of Petra where Moses struck the rock (Numbers 20:7-11) when the Israelites were perishing from thirst in the desert. It is said that Moses sent a message to King Rekem of Petra, asking permission to pass through Edom, but the king refused causing Moses and the Israelites to take the longer route around this valley. Maybe the king’s refusal was to preserve the precious water he had stored up in their cisterns? This land is full of stories that could take a lifetime to uncover. Today’s adventure certainly raised my curiosity and interest to learn more about this fascinating place that I walked through today.

When we returned to the visitor centre this afternoon, we were looking for a souvenir for our son Adam, which led us to this small store where we met the owner Magid. His shop was without power, which opened up a conversation that went well beyond us spending a few ‘Dina’ in his shop. Magid shared his heart and soul with us, revealing the very dark place of hopelessness he was in and his feeling of despair. We were deeply moved by his story but felt somewhat helpless as we will probably never see him again when we leave Jordan tomorrow. So, I felt prompted in my spirit to promise him that we would pray for this Muslim man from Petra. I asked his permission to take his photo as a reminder for me to fulfil my promise. He seemed somewhat uplifted by this commitment of prayer and asked us to start praying tonight, as he is presently trying to sell some land. He was so grateful for this conversation that he refused to take my money for our purchase and even broke Muslim protocol by reaching out to shake Ness’ hand. He said, “I don’t normally shake the hand of a woman, but there is something different about you.” We left his shop feeling this was a God-ordained encounter and with a sense that His Spirit was present in this encounter.

After dinner, our group assembled for a final time of devotion together. Our leaders Graham led a time of sharing about the highlights of this pilgrimage. After two weeks of travelling the Holy Land, there was much to share; so many experiences, divine encounters, ‘aha’ moments that impacted each one of us in different ways. Yet, something I believe we all share in common is that we will return to our respective appointments different people to who we were before we embarked on this pilgrimage. With just one day left before we depart Amman tomorrow night, we have so much to give thanks for – to God first, and to The Salvation Army for granting us this opportunity.

Holy Land Pilgrimage Journal (Day 13)

Tuesday, 24th September 2019

Once we left our hotel at the Dead Sea, we were on the road pretty much all day today. We followed the Israeli Jordan border all the way down to the Red Sea and crossed at Aqaba. At the border was our first drama for the day. Three of our tour group were pulled up on the Jordan side of the border by customs. It seems their souvenirs purchased in Israel breached Jordanian law. The offending items were a small menorah (a Jewish candelabra). Instead of just confiscating the items, they sent our group back over the Israeli border to dispose of them before letting them through customs. Two of them were actually escorted out by a soldier. You can imagine their stress and anxiety during this ordeal. As a result, we were all held up at the border for over an hour. After finally clearing immigration, we set off on our long journey back up the east side of the border towards the ‘Wadi Rum’ desert. Just before we reached the main highway in Aqaba, a car drove through the wrong side of a roundabout causing drama number two! The bus driver took evasive action, causing the bus to sharply veer onto the opposite side of the road, as he locked up the brakes. Fortunately, we avoided an accident… just! With a few frayed nerves, we continued on through the desert and enjoyed the magnificent views of the barren, rocky mountains.

Our destination was the ‘Wadi Rum’ desert, where we set off for a two-hour jeep ride through the desert. This was the scene for our third drama, which I will get to in a minute. Again, we were confronted by stunning views of the ‘Seven Pillars of Wisdom’, which were featured in the movie ‘Lawrence of Arabia’. This place was a photographer’s paradise with the desert sand against the imposing rock faces and the deep blue sky. 

Halfway through our desert adventure we stopped by a Bedouin village where they provided camel rides. A few of our group jumped at the opportunity for a short camel ride in the desert, when one of our group, Liz, came crashing to the ground when the rope holding the saddle broke. She didn’t seem to be hurt, just a little shaken. During afternoon tea at another nearby Bedouin tent, the shock of the fall hit hard, causing Liz to feel quite ill. She was loaded into one of the vehicles and rushed off to the nearest clinic for medical attention. After a lot of drama and an ambulance ride to the hospital 70 km away, she was cleared of any major injuries. All of this meant we arrived in Petra, our final destination for the day, quite late. We praise God that all three of these incidents only resulted in a bit of inconvenience and discomfort, when you consider how much worse each situation could have been. God’s hand has certainly been upon us today and we have been blessed by the rugged beauty of His mighty creation. Driving through the barrenness also gave us a brief insight into the hot, dry and tough conditions that the Israelites would have journeyed through when they left Egypt during the Exodus. Any wonder they complained so much and wanted to return to Egypt. The vulnerability of this desert space is very real and presents a similar life of challenges for the Bedouin today!

Throughout this pilgrimage, we have been treated to some exceptional accommodation in very fancy hotels. Never before have we stayed in such places! Our hotel in Petra, where we will spend our final two nights is simply beautiful, offering very fine service, facilities and food. We have been so blessed to receive such generous hospitality. It is hard to believe our journey is coming to an end, but we look forward to the final experiences on our itinerary before leaving this intriguing part of the world.

Holy Land Pilgrimage Journal (Day 10)

Saturday, 21st September 2019

Today was a complete change of pace with a free day to explore Jerusalem on our own. After a bit of a sleep-in, a small group of us set off for Old Jerusalem through the ‘forbidden’ Damascus Gate (our guide advised against using this gate to avoid pick pocketers and aggressive peddlers). One of the rebellious traits of Australians is that if you tell us we can’t do something, it is received as an invitation to push the boundaries and do it anyway! It was kind of funny that more than half of the tour group ignored the advice and went through the Damascus Gate anyway. Though, we did so exercising caution with the foreknowledge we received.

With an incident free entry to the Old City, we weaved our way through the narrow market streets of the Christian Quarter. These streets were a vibrant expression of colours and textures with an array of aromas permeating from the street stalls. From the beautiful fabrics and ancient artefacts to the local produce, the richness of Jewish and Palestinian culture was on full display. One of the things I particularly enjoyed today was the freedom to go wherever these sights, smells and sounds led and to just linger in these ordinary, everyday spaces, engaging with some very interesting people. It was the accidental encounters along the way that made the day so interesting. While waiting for one from our group, a little photography shop opened, revealing some stunning black and white photography of Jerusalem from the 1920’s. The third-generation owner of the shop showed us an extraordinary image of a shepherd and his sheep by a river. When you turn the photo upside down, you see the same shepherd with only a single sheep reflection on the water. The photo has been connected with the Scripture about the lost sheep.

The owner of another shop selling antiquities offered us tea and shared some very interesting stories behind some of the pieces from Syria. He was more concerned about extending to us his hospitality than pushing his products. Hidden among the stalls was a delightful little café that looked like it was in a cave with the limestone walls and curved ceiling. Most importantly, the double espresso I ordered was on point! Our lunch stop was at the Christ Church Coffee Shop & Courtyard, where we ordered a Mediterranean style pizza and took joy in supporting this local Christian church in Jerusalem. On our way out of the Old City, we walked through the Armenian Quarter, where we bumped into our tour guide. As an Armenian Jew, he enthusiastically invited us into the Armenian Patriarchate of Jerusalem where he shared with us some of their history.

We left the Old City through the ‘Zion Gate’ and made our way down to visit Oskar Schindler’s grave. After visiting the Holocaust Museum, the other day, it was a site I really wanted to visit. His grave was simple but adorned with stones from visitors as a Jewish custom of respect and honour for this great man. Our day concluded with a visit to the American Colony Hotel, which was established by Horatio Spafford, the composer of the hymn ‘It is Well’. This historical setting was a beautiful backdrop to finish off a very enjoyable day.

“When peace like a river, attendeth my way,

When sorrows like sea billows roll

Whatever my lot, thou hast taught me to say

It is well, it is well with my soul.”

As we prepare to leave Jerusalem and venture back into the West Bank tomorrow, it is fitting to say, “It is well with my soul.”

Holy Land Pilgrimage Journal (Day 9)

Friday, 20th September 2019

This morning, we ventured back into the Old City of Jerusalem through the ‘Dung Gate’ to visit the ‘Western Wall’ and its tunnels to explore the foundations of the original western side of the ‘Temple Mount’. This was a fascinating journey into one of the most sacred spaces of Judaism. As we learned about the historical significance of the Western Wall as the only really visible and accessible wall of the Temple Mount that survived the Roman destruction of the Temple and Muslim occupation, you get a sense why Jews choose to pray at this space. Their prayers at this section of wall are a longing for redemption and renewal of Israel. I couldn’t help but feel their longing and anguish as the Muslim prayers rang out over the loudspeakers from the Islamic ‘Golden Dome of the Rock’ built on top of the Jewish Temple Mount. Regardless of where you sit in this space politically, the clash of two monotheistic religions in the Holy place is very real. Given Judaism is the historical and religious roots of Christianity, there is a natural empathy for the Jewish longing for redemption. The tunnels of the Western Wall were a fascinating and enlightening journey, literally down the stony pathways of history. The realisation in one section of the tunnel that you were walking on original paving from the second temple period (516 BC – 70 AD) was surreal. I must confess that I was probably more intrigued by the engineering and architecture of the Temple Mount from than the religious significance (though, I did engage with that too). The sheer size and weight of the stones used to construct this wall was impressive. It any wonder that it is still standing today!

Once we left the tunnels, we were given the opportunity to pray at the Western Wall (men on one side and women on the other). I found this to be an interesting exercise that did conflict a little with my spirit. The sight of countless prayers written on pieces of paper folded and stuffed into the cracks between the rocks was somewhat sad. The spiritual significance of the wall has moved into a mystical space for many religious people who see the wall as possessing some sort of power. Even so, I stepped up to the wall and prayed, not to bricks and mortar, but to the Cornerstone of my faith, Jesus Christ, who is the Rock upon which His Church is built. The wall itself doesn’t hold the same significance for me as the ‘Temple’ of spiritual significance for me is the one the Holy Spirit establishes within the lives of those who put their faith in Jesus Christ.

“Consequently, you are no longer foreigners and strangers, but fellow citizens with God’s people and also members of his household, built on the foundation of the Apostles and Prophets, with Christ Jesus himself as the Chief Cornerstone. In him the whole building is joined together and rises to become a holy temple in the Lord. And in him you too are being built together to become a dwelling in which God lives by his Spirit.” (Ephesians 2:19-22)

This is the indestructible ‘Temple of God’ and Jesus is the Cornerstone to whom I pray for the redemption and restoration of His people.

From the Western Wall we visited the ‘Burnt House’ (Katros House) and a high priest mansion that gave us an insight into the dwelling places of the upper class in the city of Jerusalem. Again, I found the architecture and social family structures fascinating. These sorts of visits help to create a clearer picture of the society and world in which Jesus lived and ministered. This would have been the sort of house the High Priest Caiaphas would have owned, where Jesus was brought to and accused. The class distinction between a humble carpenter’s home and that of the high priest would have been stark.

After lunch, we left the Jerusalem walls of the Old City to visit the ‘City of David’. This was indeed a fascinating trip that also focused on the second temple period. It is archaeologically known for its Canaanite infrastructure dated to the Middle Bronze Age, and its newer structures from the Iron Age, built by Judean kings. This site offered contrasting views from David’s palace over a neighbourhood of Silwan, a Palestinian Arab village, intertwined with an Israeli settlement, to underground views of King Hezekiah’s water tunnels that would have sustained the city. These tunnels are a complex labyrinth of limestone passages that weave through the side of the mountain, providing channels for the underground spring of fresh water. The tunnels exit once flowed into the ‘Pool of Siloam’, which is the place where Jesus healed the blind man and possible place where the 3000 saved at Pentecost were baptised.

Finally, we ended the day at the Garden Tomb, which is another possible location for the burial of Jesus. This stunning location provided a view of a cliff face believed to be Golgotha, the place of the skull. A close look at the structure of the cliff shows some caves that resemble the face of a skull. Although, erosion and ground movement in recent years is diminishing this appearance. While there is no definitive proof which site is the actual tomb of Jesus, the location and geographic features of this site seems to better fit the biblical narrative than the site of the Holy Sepulchre. Walking inside the tomb was a powerful experience being inside the space where the body of Jesus may have laid. Yet, the fact that the tomb is empty is where the real power lies, because we worship a resurrected Lord! The simplicity of the tomb and beauty of the garden manipulates our desire for this to be the place rather than the opulence of a man-made structure. We concluded the day with a beautiful communion service in the garden which allowed us each to sit and engage with our resurrected Lord in this sacred space. In these moments, the words of our guide range true, “It’s not the site but the event that is important.” Knowing where the actual tomb is located is of little consequence to my faith, whereas, knowing that the resurrection actually happened is of eternal consequence and significance. It was a precious time for each of us and a very fitting way to end a full and rich day.

Holy Land Pilgrimage Journal (Day 8)

Thursday, 19th September 2019

This morning, we visited the 'Holocaust Museum' in Jerusalem. Knowing this was our destination evoked a whole lot of emotions within me that led to uncontrollable weeping on the bus, even before we arrived. I anticipated the museum would have an impact but was caught off-guard emotionally on the bus trip. One would expect an emotional response to the atrocities of Nazi Germany because of our shared humanity. But for me, today was personal, because of my family heritage. My great-grandfather, Wilhelm Alert Peter Bredemeyer, is German and fled to Australia during the second world war as an illegal immigrant. His two brothers, Albert and Horst, were gassed by the Nazis in the concentration camps. Albert was sent to Dachau and Horst was sent to Slozenburgh. So, I exist today because my great-grandfather left his brothers and escaped these atrocities! Therefore, moving through this poignant memorial had a very profound impact upon me, touching the core of my being. The images, stories, names, artefacts, reveal some very dark pages of our history that exposes the very worse of our humanity. 6,000,000 Jews lost their lives because of the ideology of one man who convinced a nation of their racial and religious superiority. This memorial stands as a reminder and as a warning. Yet, I fear that we are dangerously close to the conditions that led to the Holocaust in some parts of our world today!

We then moved from one museum to another with a visit to the ‘Israel Museum’ which houses the 'Dead Sea Scrolls', among other significant cultural artefacts. But the exhibition that captured my attention immediately as we walked through the entrances was an extraordinary scale model of the Old City of Jerusalem (1/4” – 1’) in the second temple period. The model measures 1,000 square metres and is made entirely from limestone and marble with stunning detail. The centre housing the Dead Sea Scrolls is known as the ‘Shrine of the Book’ and is a fascinating piece of architecture and engineering in the shape of a large white dome. It is an impressive building displaying ancient artefacts relating to the scrolls, including the lids of the jars in which the first scrolls were discovered at Qumran in 1947.

Our afternoon then took us across the border into the West Bank to visit Bethlehem in the Palestinian territory. The high border walls are testament to the conflict and mistrust between these two groups of people. The contrast between Israel and this part of Palestine is hard to ignore in the civic management of these two regions. The perpetual state of conflict between these two nations and the imposing barrier of an eight metre concrete wall has clearly had an adverse effect on the Palestinian people. The territory around Bethlehem, where we travelled today, is poorly kept and we found the people we encountered on the street suspicious of our presence and somewhat aggressive, seeing us as someone to exploit. I personally felt a mixture of sadness and disappointment by what I encountered in Bethlehem today. Despite this, we did meet some lovely Palestinian Christians at the Bethlehem Bible College when we attended a lecture by Salim Munyer, co-author of a book titled, ‘Through My Enemy’s Eyes – Envisioning Reconciliation in Israel-Palestine’. He spoke about the history behind the conflict and cast a vision for a new reality of peace. It was very interesting and challenging to hear a Palestinian perspective about the conflict. At the end of his lecture Salim said, “Christians need to call both sides to reconciliation with God and with each other.” 

Today really challenged my emotions and my thinking. Have we really learned from the Holocaust? Is there any difference between the segregation of the Jews in WW2 and the wall that segregates the Palestinians today? Are we recreating similar conditions that will/could lead this region down a similar pathway to Nazi Germany? To some, these might seem like outrageous questions, but to me there are present day warning signs that cannot be ignored if we don’t wish to repeat history. I know the political and cultural circumstances between Israel and Palestine are complex, but the fragility of this region deserves/demands a better way forward. The words I read today by a 14 year old boy who was killed in an Aushwitz gas chamber should speak into this present conflict, offering a plea for a better future by Jewish and Palestinian children alike:

“When I will be 20 years old,

In a motorised bird I’ll sit,

And to the reaches of space I’ll rise.

I will fly,

I will float to the beautiful faraway world

And skywards I will soar.

The cloud my sister will be

The wind is brother to me.

I will fly,

I will float over rivers and seas.

I will marvel at the Euphrates and Nile.

I will gaze at the Sphinx and Pyramids

In the goddess Isis’ ancient land.

I will glide over the mighty Niagra Falls,

And soak up the warmth of the Sahara’s sun

Over the cloud-covered Tibetan peaks will I ascend,

Above the mysterious magic land of the Hindus.

And when extricated from the sun’s heat,

I will take wing to the Arctic North,

And I will whir above the giant kangaroo isle,

And then over the ruins of Pompeii.

From there I’ll set my sights to the Holy Land,

Where our covenant was given.

I will even reach the illustrious Homer’s country,

And will be so amazed by the beauty of this world.

To the heavens I will take off.

The cloud my sister will be

The wind is brother to me.”

(Written by Abramek Koplowicz)

This dream from the past shines hope into the present. If a 14 year old Jewish boy can dare to dream from a concentration camp in Germany, then maybe a 14 year old girl can dare to dream from behind a wall in the West Bank. As I read this poem, the words of Nella Fantasia began to echo in my mind as it too speaks of a similar dream for humanity…

“Nella fantasia ip vedo un mondo giusto,

Li tutti vivono in pace e in onesta.

Lo sogno d’aime che sono sempre libere,

Come le nuvole che volano,

Pian’ d’umanita in fondo all’anima.”

(Italian)

“In my fantasy I see a just world,

Where everyone lives in peace and honesty.

I dream of souls that are always free

Like the clouds that float

Full of humanity in the depths of the soul.”

(English Translation)

In poetry and in song the dream remains the same for shalom to prevail for all of God’s children in all nations on earth!

Holy Land Pilgrimage Journal (Day 7)

Wednesday, 18th September 2019

Today, our pilgrimage took us into the Old City of Jerusalem via the Palm Sunday route from the 'Mount of Olives'. We commenced our journey at the ‘Church of the Pater Noster’ located on the Mount of Olives, which is the traditional site where Jesus taught the disciples how to pray (the Lord’s prayer). As we moved through this church, the walls were lined with renditions of ‘The Lord’s Prayer’ in almost every language you could think of. It was quite a blessing listening to different cultural groups gather around their particular language board to recite the prayer in their mother tongue. I was somewhat disappointed not to find one written in Pijin English. However, I was able to photograph the Indonesian board for our dear friends Majors Nyoman & Suni Timonuli.

“Dadi bong mifala long heven,

Nem blong yu nao hemi mas stap bikfala.

Yu mekem kingdom blong yu fo kam.

Yu mekem wanem yu laekem nomoa

Fo hapen long disfala wol,

Olsem wea hemi hapen long heven.

Yu givim kam kaikai wea hemi

Fitim mifala fo tude.

Yu fogivim mifala long olketa

Ravis samting wea mifala duim,

Olsem mifala tu forgivim olketa

Hu I duim olketa ravis samting long mifala.

Yu no letem enikaen samting

Kam lo traem mifala,

Bat yu sevem mifala from paoa blong seitan.”

(Matthew 6:9-13, Solomon Islands Pijin Bible)

As we continued along our journey, we got our first glimpse of the Holy City, which was stunning. Seeing photos online is one thing but standing on the Mount of Olives looking down on Jerusalem is quite another. Next stop was the ‘Dominus Flevit Church’. This is the traditional site where Jesus wept over Jerusalem on His way towards His ‘Triumphal Entry’ into the Holy City.

Further down the Mount of Olives was the 'Garden of Gethsemane' and the 'Basilica of Gethsemane'. As spectacular as the beautifully decorated basilica was, I was more drawn to the olive tree lined garden. The arid garden connected me more with the anguish of Christ than the ornate church sanctuary. There in the garden among the 2000 year old olive trees, I imagined myself waiting and watching with the disciples while Jesus prayed. This garden is truly a sacred space that exposed the intersection between Christ’s humanity and divinity.

“Lest I forget Gethsemane

Lest I forget thine agony

Lest I forget thy love for me

Lead me to Calvary.”

Finally, as we left the Mount of Olives, we entered the Old City of Jerusalem through the Lion’s Gate. There was a tangible sense of excitement and anticipation as we entered the ancient walls of Jerusalem. I even think someone in our group started singing, ‘Jerusalem, Jerusalem’. Our first stop inside the gate was the 'Pool of Bethesda' where Jesus healed the paralysed man who begged by the pool daily. The stone infrastructure of this pool that was still standing was quite amazing. Alongside the Pool of Bethesda is the 'Church of Saint Anne'. This beautiful church offered extraordinary acoustics which have become quite an attraction for touring groups to assemble at the sanctuary to sing. The sound of music pouring out of this church really is something to hear. We even waited our turn before assembling at the front of the church to sing ‘I Love You Lord’ and ‘We are Standing on Holy Ground’. It was another awe-inspiring moment. Yet, again, I found myself with a conflict in my spirit. Somehow this beautiful attraction seemed to draw people’s attention away from the wonder of the healing beside the Pool of Bethesda. A small sign beside the pool that declared the power of Jesus seemed to be overshadowed by the echo of voices inside the church. This feeling was further punctuated as I walked down the stairs to the basement below the church that is considered by Catholics to be the birthplace of Mary. The birthplace of ‘Our Lady’ seemed to be a greater attraction than the healing place of ‘Our Lord’. I don’t mean to be cynical or overtly critical, but I can’t help the way I felt.

Other sites visited inside the Holy City as we walked the 'Via Dolorosa' include the 'Struthion Pool' before the 'Convent of the Sisters of Zion', the 'Upper Room of the Last Supper' and 'King David’s Tomb'; all of which offered memorable moments. But the one space I want to comment on is the 'Church of the Holy Sepulchre', the place of the crucifixion and the tomb of Jesus Christ. I’m certain for many pilgrims this would be the pinnacle or defining moment of visiting the Holy City (the crowds alone certainly suggest this). In many ways, that was my hope and expectation for myself. Yet, that was far from my experience. Our visit to the Holy Sepulchre was a melee of religious pilgrims scrambling for a glimpse or touch of the elaborate and ornate icons representing the death and resurrection of Jesus Christ. The crowds were simply overwhelming and the jostling for position almost sacrilegious. As much as I wanted to just linger in this most sacred space, I was too distracted and disorientated by the chaos around me. And our well-meaning guide didn’t help matters as he seemed more concerned ushering us around the crowd from on spot to another than allowing us to simple be present and encounter God’s presence. Beyond the ‘WOW’ factor of the extraordinary architecture and rich history that surrounded us, I was sadly spiritually underwhelmed! We are going to try and revisit the Holy Sepulchre on our free day at a much earlier hour before the tour groups arrive and see whether that provides us with a different experience.

Holy Land Pilgrimage Journal (Day 5)

Monday, 16th September 2019

After another spectacular sunrise over the Sea of Galilee, we drove to the top of nearby Mount Arbel, which provided panoramic views of Magdala and Tiberius. As we climbed the stony track from the carpark, you couldn’t help but be in awe of the massive cliff faces of Mount Arbel. The cliffs were formed as a result of the Jordan Rift Valley and geological faults that formed the valley. The view was simply stunning!! There is something about being on top of a mountain that connects me with the awe and wonder of our Creator God. Standing out on the rock ledges, I was reminded: “He is my rock and salvation; He is my fortress, I will not be shaken. My salvation and my honour depend on God; He alone is my mighty rock, my refuge” (Psalm 62:6-7).

We then moved onto the Church of Heptapegon where we reflected on Jesus in Tabgha. This is the site of where Jesus fed the multitude. The loaves and fishes were beautifully represented in the church through some elaborate mosaics that lined the sanctuary.

The next part of today’s journey took us up the north of the Sea of Galilee to Caesarea Philippi at the foot of Mount Hermon. As we drove parallel to the Israel Lebanon border we were confronted by signage along the roadside warning of the minefield on the other side of the barbed wire fence. These signs connected with a powerful moment at Caesarea Philippi where we sang together the hymn, ‘Thou Art the Way’. Singing the final verse of this beautiful hymn brought back to mind these warning signs:

“I would bring peace to lives now torn asunder,

Ease aching hearts with words that soothe and heal;

I would bring peace when, breaking like the thunder,

Men rise in war and hatred feel.

Peacemaker, Lord! Now I am stirred to wonder;

O take me and my calling seal.”

Such powerful words for this war-torn border that has a long history of conflict. That was the first of two moments of deep impact for me today at this site. The actual context of singing this song was a part of a time of reflection on the moment that Jesus asked the disciples, “Who do you say I am?” The question of Messianic identity was asked at the backdrop of pagan temples that had been carved by the Romans into the rocky hillside. This place had become a centre of pagan worship for the Roman god of Pan, among others. It was in this polytheistic context that Peter boldly declared, “You are the Messiah, the Son of the living God” (Matthew 16:16). When we walked through the ruins of the pagan temples, which are a remnant of the might of Rome, the truth and power of Peter’s declaration are living stones that Christ’s church still stands upon today! This was a powerful realisation at this point of our pilgrimage through the ancient remains of this Roman city.

“Blessing and honour, glory and power,

Be unto the Ancient of Days

From every nation, all of creation

Bow before the Ancient of Days”

Finally, we drove back down, along the east coast of the Sea of Galilee, to the southern shores where the Jordan River meets the lake. Yardenit is said to be the baptismal site where Jesus was baptised in the Jordan by John the Baptist.

“In those days Jesus came from Nazareth of Galilee and was baptised by John in the Jordan. And when He came up out of the water, immediately He saw the heavens open and the Spirit descending upon Him like a dove” (Mark 1:9-11)

A number of our group took the opportunity to be baptised in the River Jordan as a rededication of their faith in this significant location. While I respect the choice of those who participated in this ritual, I chose not to. This decision didn’t come from any particular theological or biblical position, rather a deep personal conviction that my faith in Jesus Christ and calling is not dependent upon any external ritual or rite of passage.

Holy Land Pilgrimage Journal (Day 3)

Saturday, 14th September 2019

Travelling into Nazareth took us into the place where Jesus was raised as the son of Joseph and Mary. An ordinary place where an ordinary Jewish boy grew up with an extraordinary calling and purpose for His life. As we travelled through the streets of Nazareth, I connected with our belief that Jesus was "truly and properly man." His humanity came alive as we ventured into the marketplaces, walked past carpentry shops and saw a glimpse of the world Jesus grew up in.

Then, when we visited the old Church of the Annunciation and the Basilica of the Annunciation, these ordinary scenes of Jewish life gave way to elaborate scenes that confronted you with awe-inspiring images of the divinity of Jesus Christ. This was captured by stunning murals and mosaics that depicted when the angel of the Lord appeared to Mary. While Protestant Christians do not venerate Mary in the same way the Catholics do, the Basilica was an impressive tribute to an amazing Jewish girl who carried the Son of God.

From the ornate churches, we returned to the ordinary reality of village life that took us back in time to an ancient Nazareth village. This recreation of a first-century village really did bring to life the reality of this Galilean village. Every detail was captured in the architecture, agriculture and activities depicted in the village. It was quite an extraordinary walk back through time that gave me a sense of presence in the life of Jesus.

"And came and lived in a city called Nazareth. This was what was written by the prophets, "He shall be called a Nazarene."" (Matthew 2:23)

"Nathanael said to him, "can any good thing come out of Nazareth?" Philip said to him, "Come and see."" (John 1:46)

Next stop, Cana - the place of the wedding supper where Jesus turned water into wine. The Franciscans have built St. Nathaniel's Chapel over this site which now is used to conduct the renewal of marriage vows for visiting couples. Yet, as meaningful as this is, the significance of the first recorded miracle of Jesus seems to get overshadowed. It certainly felt that way for me. This was further accentuated by the beautiful imagery of St. Francis of Assisi that adorned the chapel and grounds. I left this location with very mixed feelings today.

The final location we visited today had the most profound impact on me! We travelled to the northwest shore of the Sea of Galilee where Peter was reinstated by Jesus after his denial of Christ. Here the words of Jesus, "Do you love me?" spoke powerfully to me. We stood on the shore of Galilee and sang the words of Howard Davies' song, "Lord, you know that we love you." This was a most fitting song for a very sacred moment. Three rocks shaped as love hearts imbedded into the ground nearby added to the impact of the moment. As we sang the final verse, I was overwhelmed with such deep emotion, I could no longer sing but could only allow Christ to speak through the singing of the rest of our tour group...

"Lord, you know that we fail you;

Our sins, how sorely they grieve you!

Many times we have fallen,

Lord, lift us up again.

May we walk to be worthy

Of the call that is ours,

May your will and your purpose

Claim our undivided powers!"

Following this powerful moment, I went and stood in the Sea of Galilee and allowed Christ's deep, deep love for me flood my soul.

Holy Land Pilgrimage Journal (Day 2)

Friday, 13th September 2019

Upon leaving the airport in Jordan, we were immediately confronted with a dry and barren land with a distinct ancient Palestinian feel, as we drove through the capital Amman. From the limestone architecture to the olive and fig trees lining the roads, you felt a real connection with the land that Jesus would have travelled and the people He would have met along the way. The rocky ground, dry soil and rolling hills bare of vegetation, the Jordanian countryside had an ancient, rugged beauty. Yet, against this backdrop, the stain of modernity littered the countryside in much the same way that the stain of sin litters our lives.

The highlight of this part of our journey was a visit to the Greco-Roman ruins of Jerash. These are the most well-preserved ruins in Jordan that display the nexus of Greek culture and Roman infrastructure in a Palestinian world. I was particularly captured by the Agora, a bustling meeting place where people gathered to discuss philosophy and to buy and sell in the marketplace. Walking through these ruins was an extraordinary step back in time.

Crossing the border into Israel was a stark contrast to Jordan. The rocky, barren land gave way to rich, fertile soil. The banks of the Jordan River became lush with vegetation and to my surprise, eucalyptus trees that were imported from Australia. The pomegranates, olives and figs that lined the street stalls diversified into greenhouses full of bananas, mangos and other subtropical plantations. Then, as the Jordan River reached the Sea of Galilee, the land and the city of Tiberius really came alive! Within kilometres of crossing the border, it was like you leaped into another part of the world, and even, period of time.

Holy Land Pilgrimage Journal (Day 1)

Thursday, 12th September 2019

As I set off on the 'Footsteps of Jesus' Holy Land tour, I find my mind turning to the powerful prayer of St Francis of Assisi that has spoken to me and challenged me many times throughout my Christian Pilgrimage:

"Most High, Glorious God

Enlighten the darkness of my heart,

and give me right faith,

certain hope, and perfect charity,

 wisdom and understanding,

Lord, that I may carry out your Holy and true command.

Amen"

In carrying out God's work in my current role, a certain degree of darkness of heart has overshadowed this work.  My prayer over this couple of weeks is that God's light (Jesus) may penetrate that darkness as I retrace His steps through the Holy Land.