Saturday, 21st September 2019
Today was a complete change of pace with a free day to explore Jerusalem on our own. After a bit of a sleep-in, a small group of us set off for Old Jerusalem through the ‘forbidden’ Damascus Gate (our guide advised against using this gate to avoid pick pocketers and aggressive peddlers). One of the rebellious traits of Australians is that if you tell us we can’t do something, it is received as an invitation to push the boundaries and do it anyway! It was kind of funny that more than half of the tour group ignored the advice and went through the Damascus Gate anyway. Though, we did so exercising caution with the foreknowledge we received.
With an incident free entry to the Old City, we weaved our way through the narrow market streets of the Christian Quarter. These streets were a vibrant expression of colours and textures with an array of aromas permeating from the street stalls. From the beautiful fabrics and ancient artefacts to the local produce, the richness of Jewish and Palestinian culture was on full display. One of the things I particularly enjoyed today was the freedom to go wherever these sights, smells and sounds led and to just linger in these ordinary, everyday spaces, engaging with some very interesting people. It was the accidental encounters along the way that made the day so interesting. While waiting for one from our group, a little photography shop opened, revealing some stunning black and white photography of Jerusalem from the 1920’s. The third-generation owner of the shop showed us an extraordinary image of a shepherd and his sheep by a river. When you turn the photo upside down, you see the same shepherd with only a single sheep reflection on the water. The photo has been connected with the Scripture about the lost sheep.
The owner of another shop selling antiquities offered us tea and shared some very interesting stories behind some of the pieces from Syria. He was more concerned about extending to us his hospitality than pushing his products. Hidden among the stalls was a delightful little café that looked like it was in a cave with the limestone walls and curved ceiling. Most importantly, the double espresso I ordered was on point! Our lunch stop was at the Christ Church Coffee Shop & Courtyard, where we ordered a Mediterranean style pizza and took joy in supporting this local Christian church in Jerusalem. On our way out of the Old City, we walked through the Armenian Quarter, where we bumped into our tour guide. As an Armenian Jew, he enthusiastically invited us into the Armenian Patriarchate of Jerusalem where he shared with us some of their history.
We left the Old City through the ‘Zion Gate’ and made our way down to visit Oskar Schindler’s grave. After visiting the Holocaust Museum, the other day, it was a site I really wanted to visit. His grave was simple but adorned with stones from visitors as a Jewish custom of respect and honour for this great man. Our day concluded with a visit to the American Colony Hotel, which was established by Horatio Spafford, the composer of the hymn ‘It is Well’. This historical setting was a beautiful backdrop to finish off a very enjoyable day.
“When peace like a river, attendeth my way,
When sorrows like sea billows roll
Whatever my lot, thou hast taught me to say
It is well, it is well with my soul.”
As we prepare to leave Jerusalem and venture back into the West Bank tomorrow, it is fitting to say, “It is well with my soul.”
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