Holy Land Pilgrimage Journal (Day 6)

Tuesday, 17th September 2019

This morning, we checked out of the Sea of Galilee Hotel and made our way towards Jerusalem. Our first stop along the way was at the hilltop city of Megiddo, which overlooks the Jezreel Valley. The ruins of this ancient city were simply amazing, giving you an historic insight into the period. Megiddo is widely considered to be the Armageddon of the New Testament where the final battle to the end of the world. One of the impressive features of this city (apart from a breathtaking view of the valley) was Ahab’s tunnel. This tunnel was dug to connect the heavily fortified city to underground springs that lay outside the city gate. That way, the occupants could access fresh water without leaving their gates and out of sight of their enemies. Genius!! There was also an underground grain store with stairs leading in and out to ensure the community had access to an ample supply of food. Another example of clever civil engineering.

From this impressive city, we drove to Mount Carmel where Elijah confronted the Prophets of Baal in the Old Testament. I was given the privilege of reading the story from 1 Kings 18:16-39 in a garden courtyard alongside a rather intimidating statue of the prophet Elijah. While reading this Scripture, the rest of our group noticed a cross in the background. Elijah’s prayer…

“Lord, God of Abraham, Isaac and Israel, let it be known today that you are God in Israel and that I am your servant and have done all these things at your command. Answer me, Lord, answer me, so these people will know that you, Lord, are God, and that you are turning their hearts back again” (1 Kings 18:36-37).

Reading this Scripture in such a location was truly an awe-inspiring moment! What added to the moment was the rumbling of military aircraft engines in the distant background. It almost sounded like thunder in the distance. Following this reading, I invited our group to sing together the chorus ‘Be Still’…

“Be still, for the presence of the Lord, the Holy One is here.

Come bow before Him now with reverence and fear.

In Him no sin is found. We stand on holy ground.

Be still, for the presence of the Lord, the Holy One is here.

Be Still, for the glory of the Lord is shining all around.

He burns with holy fire; with splendour He is crowned.

How awesome is the sight, our radiant King of Light.

Be still, for the glory of the Lord is shining all around.

“Be still, for the power of the Lord is moving in this place.

He comes to cleanse and heal, to minister His grace.

No work too hard for Him. In faith, receive from Him.

Be still, for the power of the Lord is moving in this place.”

This was truly a mountain top experience in every way! I never imagined in my life ever being able to stand in the same space as the prophet Elijah and read a part of his story in the very place it happened. I’ve always connected with God on the top of mountains but today was something special that I’ll always remember.

As we passed through Haifa, we made a brief stop at the Bahai Temple and Garden. The view across the city was amazing and the Bahai Gardens were beautiful. However, I really did wonder the relevance and appropriateness of such a stop on the “Footsteps of Jesus” Holy Land Tour?! Personally, I would have much rather stop at the Elijah Cave while passing through Haifa. Nevertheless, I am grateful for the journey.

The journey along the coastline of the Mediterranean Sea, before turning inland to Jerusalem, offered some amazing Roman architecture with views of the Roman Aqueduct in Caesarea and the Roman Theatre at the Caesarea National Park. Among the ruins of the Roman Theatre, we paused to read from Acts 25:1-12, when Paul stood accused before Festus and boldly defended himself by saying, “I appeal to Caesar.” Once again standing in the very location where these Scriptures happened is quite amazing.

Our final stop for the day, before reaching Jerusalem, was at Jaffa. Apart from the biblical significance of Jaffa (aka Joppa) being the place where Jonah ran from God (Jonah 1:3) and where Peter had a vision and met with Cornelius (Acts 10:9-23), this was an absolutely delightful city. The European influence is unmistakable in the Middle Eastern architecture and cultural interaction in street markets and cafes along the esplanade. We were given some welcomed free time (not enough) to explore the beauty of this delightful setting. Of course, I found a quaint little café where I took the opportunity to order a double espresso, which didn’t disappoint! I would definitely return to Jaffa if I ever had the opportunity, to take in every part of this city. Oh yeah, the view of Tel Aviv was spectacular also!!

We drove into Jerusalem after sunset and checked into our second hotel for the trip – ‘The Olive Tree Hotel’ – which is gorgeous! From the ancient Judo-Roman décor to the olive tree in the middle of an elaborate dining room, then the personalised greeting on the TV monitor in our room, this place is something special. I think we are going to really enjoy the next five nights in this accommodation. It’s been a long, full day, but a blessed day. We look forward to getting out and about to explore some of the significant places where Jesus actually walked.

Holy Land Pilgrimage Journal (Day 5)

Monday, 16th September 2019

After another spectacular sunrise over the Sea of Galilee, we drove to the top of nearby Mount Arbel, which provided panoramic views of Magdala and Tiberius. As we climbed the stony track from the carpark, you couldn’t help but be in awe of the massive cliff faces of Mount Arbel. The cliffs were formed as a result of the Jordan Rift Valley and geological faults that formed the valley. The view was simply stunning!! There is something about being on top of a mountain that connects me with the awe and wonder of our Creator God. Standing out on the rock ledges, I was reminded: “He is my rock and salvation; He is my fortress, I will not be shaken. My salvation and my honour depend on God; He alone is my mighty rock, my refuge” (Psalm 62:6-7).

We then moved onto the Church of Heptapegon where we reflected on Jesus in Tabgha. This is the site of where Jesus fed the multitude. The loaves and fishes were beautifully represented in the church through some elaborate mosaics that lined the sanctuary.

The next part of today’s journey took us up the north of the Sea of Galilee to Caesarea Philippi at the foot of Mount Hermon. As we drove parallel to the Israel Lebanon border we were confronted by signage along the roadside warning of the minefield on the other side of the barbed wire fence. These signs connected with a powerful moment at Caesarea Philippi where we sang together the hymn, ‘Thou Art the Way’. Singing the final verse of this beautiful hymn brought back to mind these warning signs:

“I would bring peace to lives now torn asunder,

Ease aching hearts with words that soothe and heal;

I would bring peace when, breaking like the thunder,

Men rise in war and hatred feel.

Peacemaker, Lord! Now I am stirred to wonder;

O take me and my calling seal.”

Such powerful words for this war-torn border that has a long history of conflict. That was the first of two moments of deep impact for me today at this site. The actual context of singing this song was a part of a time of reflection on the moment that Jesus asked the disciples, “Who do you say I am?” The question of Messianic identity was asked at the backdrop of pagan temples that had been carved by the Romans into the rocky hillside. This place had become a centre of pagan worship for the Roman god of Pan, among others. It was in this polytheistic context that Peter boldly declared, “You are the Messiah, the Son of the living God” (Matthew 16:16). When we walked through the ruins of the pagan temples, which are a remnant of the might of Rome, the truth and power of Peter’s declaration are living stones that Christ’s church still stands upon today! This was a powerful realisation at this point of our pilgrimage through the ancient remains of this Roman city.

“Blessing and honour, glory and power,

Be unto the Ancient of Days

From every nation, all of creation

Bow before the Ancient of Days”

Finally, we drove back down, along the east coast of the Sea of Galilee, to the southern shores where the Jordan River meets the lake. Yardenit is said to be the baptismal site where Jesus was baptised in the Jordan by John the Baptist.

“In those days Jesus came from Nazareth of Galilee and was baptised by John in the Jordan. And when He came up out of the water, immediately He saw the heavens open and the Spirit descending upon Him like a dove” (Mark 1:9-11)

A number of our group took the opportunity to be baptised in the River Jordan as a rededication of their faith in this significant location. While I respect the choice of those who participated in this ritual, I chose not to. This decision didn’t come from any particular theological or biblical position, rather a deep personal conviction that my faith in Jesus Christ and calling is not dependent upon any external ritual or rite of passage.