Holy Land Pilgrimage Journal (Day 5)

Monday, 16th September 2019

After another spectacular sunrise over the Sea of Galilee, we drove to the top of nearby Mount Arbel, which provided panoramic views of Magdala and Tiberius. As we climbed the stony track from the carpark, you couldn’t help but be in awe of the massive cliff faces of Mount Arbel. The cliffs were formed as a result of the Jordan Rift Valley and geological faults that formed the valley. The view was simply stunning!! There is something about being on top of a mountain that connects me with the awe and wonder of our Creator God. Standing out on the rock ledges, I was reminded: “He is my rock and salvation; He is my fortress, I will not be shaken. My salvation and my honour depend on God; He alone is my mighty rock, my refuge” (Psalm 62:6-7).

We then moved onto the Church of Heptapegon where we reflected on Jesus in Tabgha. This is the site of where Jesus fed the multitude. The loaves and fishes were beautifully represented in the church through some elaborate mosaics that lined the sanctuary.

The next part of today’s journey took us up the north of the Sea of Galilee to Caesarea Philippi at the foot of Mount Hermon. As we drove parallel to the Israel Lebanon border we were confronted by signage along the roadside warning of the minefield on the other side of the barbed wire fence. These signs connected with a powerful moment at Caesarea Philippi where we sang together the hymn, ‘Thou Art the Way’. Singing the final verse of this beautiful hymn brought back to mind these warning signs:

“I would bring peace to lives now torn asunder,

Ease aching hearts with words that soothe and heal;

I would bring peace when, breaking like the thunder,

Men rise in war and hatred feel.

Peacemaker, Lord! Now I am stirred to wonder;

O take me and my calling seal.”

Such powerful words for this war-torn border that has a long history of conflict. That was the first of two moments of deep impact for me today at this site. The actual context of singing this song was a part of a time of reflection on the moment that Jesus asked the disciples, “Who do you say I am?” The question of Messianic identity was asked at the backdrop of pagan temples that had been carved by the Romans into the rocky hillside. This place had become a centre of pagan worship for the Roman god of Pan, among others. It was in this polytheistic context that Peter boldly declared, “You are the Messiah, the Son of the living God” (Matthew 16:16). When we walked through the ruins of the pagan temples, which are a remnant of the might of Rome, the truth and power of Peter’s declaration are living stones that Christ’s church still stands upon today! This was a powerful realisation at this point of our pilgrimage through the ancient remains of this Roman city.

“Blessing and honour, glory and power,

Be unto the Ancient of Days

From every nation, all of creation

Bow before the Ancient of Days”

Finally, we drove back down, along the east coast of the Sea of Galilee, to the southern shores where the Jordan River meets the lake. Yardenit is said to be the baptismal site where Jesus was baptised in the Jordan by John the Baptist.

“In those days Jesus came from Nazareth of Galilee and was baptised by John in the Jordan. And when He came up out of the water, immediately He saw the heavens open and the Spirit descending upon Him like a dove” (Mark 1:9-11)

A number of our group took the opportunity to be baptised in the River Jordan as a rededication of their faith in this significant location. While I respect the choice of those who participated in this ritual, I chose not to. This decision didn’t come from any particular theological or biblical position, rather a deep personal conviction that my faith in Jesus Christ and calling is not dependent upon any external ritual or rite of passage.