Holy Land Pilgrimage Journal (Day 16)

Friday, 27th September 2019

When we flew into Brisbane, we ordered a ride through ‘Uber’ to get from the international terminal to the motel. To our surprise, the driver was a Jordanian man who had grown up in Bethlehem in the West Bank. He also worked in Dubai before moving his family to Australia. He was so excited that we had just travelled to his homeland. We shared stories about the places we had visited and learned a bit about his family during the short trip to the motel. It really was a delightful way to end this part of our trip back to Australia. What are the chances of getting a driver from Jordan and the West Bank in Brisbane?!

Holy Land Pilgrimage Journal (Day 15)

Thursday, 26th September 2019

Today’s journal entry comes from the seat of flight EK904 from Amman to Dubai, as we begin our journey home. We left the Movenpick Hotel in Petra early to make our way up to Amman. Along the way, we stopped at Mount Nebo to visit the ‘Memorial of Moses’. From this vantage point, we looked over the Jordan Valley and could see what Moses did from the very spot that God gave Moses a glimpse of the land he would never enter. It was a surreal moment taking in the significance of such a view. It was so much more than just pretty scenery but a vision of a promise for the people of Israel.

“Then Moses climbed Mount Nebo from the plains of Moab to the top of Pisgah, across from Jericho. There the Lord showed him the whole land – from Gilead to Dan, all of Naphtali, the territory of Ephraim and Manasseh, all the land of Judah as far as the Mediterranean Sea, the Negev and the whole region from the valley of Jericho, the City of Palms, as far as Zoar. Then the Lord said to him, “This is the land I promised on oath to Abraham, Isaac and Jacob when I said, “I will give it to your descendants.” I have let you see it with your eyes, but you will not cross over into it”” (Deuteronomy 34:1-4).

What may have been a disappointment to Moses may also have been a vision of fulfilment, having completed the task God assigned to him at the burning bush. We don’t read of disappointment or resentment but of anointing and handing of the mantle of leadership to Joshua to lead the Israelites Moses had rescued from slavery into the promised land.

“Now Joshua son of Nun was filled with the spirit of wisdom because Moses had laid his hands on him. So the Israelites listened to him and did what the Lord had commanded Moses.” (Deuteronomy 34:9)

The ‘Memorial Church of Moses’, along with some impacting statues, stand as a tribute to the man who earned the epitaph, “Since then, no prophet has risen in Israel like Moses, whom the Lord knew face to face…” (Deuteronomy 34:10). The remains of the 6th century church and stunning mosaics housed in this memorial church have stood as a lasting testimony to Moses’ life and leadership on top of Mount Nebo.

From the mountaintop we descended back down into the valley to the city of Madaba to visit ‘St. George’s Mosaic Map Church’. This remarkable mosaic map of the Holy Land and surrounding regions is another example of the amazing craftsmanship of the 6th century that has been passed down through the generations to today in Jordan. The detail of this map, showing key places of biblical significance, is something to be admired and preserved for future generations.

After visiting the ‘Church of the Mosaic Map’ we all gathered at the 'Haret Jdoudna Restaurant' for our final meal together as a group of pilgrims. Over the past two weeks, we have shared a life changing pilgrimage that has taken us on a journey through the pages of Scripture to the sites where it actually happened. We have shared moments of awe and wonder, laughed and cried together, and have experienced divine encounters along the way. At the beginning of this pilgrimage, many of us were strangers, but along the way, a bond of friendship that has roots sown in a mutual experience has been formed. As we each return to our respective appointments, we will take a piece of each other’s lives with us as fellow pilgrims of the Holy Land. It has been a real joy to share this journey with Officers from around Australia that already share a common calling and covenant. It has also been a delight getting to know Officers from the former Australia Eastern Territory and travel together under the banner of the new Australia National Territory.

As we approached Amman airport in Jordan, one of our fellow pilgrims presented us each with a small crocheted cross that she had handmade during our trip as a thoughtful token of our journey in the footsteps of Jesus over the past two weeks. Therefore, I have chosen to embed this lovely gift into the pages of this journal as a permanent imprint of what this trip was all about. It’s all about Jesus!! The historic Greco-Roman culture set the environment for the birth of Jesus and the present Israel Palestinian conflict may well set the scene for the return of Jesus. In the centre of this complex political and religious region, by God’s divine providence, Jesus still remains at the heart of the Holy Land. The ‘Wailing Wall’ and the ‘Golden Dome’ pale into insignificance before the path of the cross! Even the ornate beauty of the ‘Holy Sepulchre’ falls short of the majesty of the One it represents. Walking in the ‘Footsteps of Jesus’ throughout the Holy Land was ultimately a journey towards the cross, as this was Christ’s mission for the salvation of humankind. All His teaching, miracles and encounters along the way was to fulfil His Father’s will (John 6:38).

“Oh, the wonderful cross, oh the wonderful cross

Bid me come and die and find that I may truly live.

Oh, the wonderful cross, oh the wonderful cross

All who gather here by grace, draw near and bless Your name.

Love so amazing, so divine demands my soul, my life, my all.

It’s the beauty and the shame, it’s the glory and the name

Wonderful cross.”

Holy Land Pilgrimage Journal (Day 14)

Wednesday, 25th September 2019

Our destination for today was literally over the road from our hotel. The visitor centre at the Petra Archaeological Park was a doorway to one of the ‘7 Wonders of the World’. As we descended the stony path, we were greeted by stunning sandstone cliffs that gradually revealed their secrets. This was the land of the Nabateans who carved extraordinary monuments into the surrounding cliffs to form a sophisticated society in the barren desert. Elaborately decorated rock faced tombs of the Nabateans and caves recently occupied by the Bedouins line the cliff faces. Following the contours of the ‘Siq’ (shaft) is an aqueduct channel carved into the sandstone to allow a channel of water to run down the mountain into deep cisterns to sustain this ancient civilisation in the desert. Walking through this crevice known as the ‘Siq’ was an awe-inspiring experience and a photographer’s paradise! 

Every turn opened up another stunning scene begging to be photographed. The natural colours of the sandstone against the bright blue sky with the sun piercing between the rocks was truly amazing. The further we descended the more impressive the tomb carvings became. Then we reached the famous ‘Treasury’ which was featured in the movie ‘Indiana Jones – Last Crusade’. This forty metre high façade carved into the cliff face is a magnificent, intricate rock craving from the first century that has been remarkably preserved to the present day.

Beyond this main attraction, we found the ‘High Place of Sacrifice’, a Roman style theatre that can seat 4,000 spectators, royal tombs, the church and other equally spectacular world heritage monuments from this ancient city. There was so much to take in along this promenade of historic masterpieces. Along the way, were peddlers, market stalls, donkey and camel rides and other conveniences for the large number of tourists who visit this attraction. Unlike the locations we have visited throughout this trip, the locals trying to sell their products or services actually added to the experience. It brought these static displays to life with the hustle and bustle of village life that gave some sense of how this society may have functioned. You could almost imagine the travelling caravans passing through the once vibrant community. In fact, it was just outside of Petra where Moses struck the rock (Numbers 20:7-11) when the Israelites were perishing from thirst in the desert. It is said that Moses sent a message to King Rekem of Petra, asking permission to pass through Edom, but the king refused causing Moses and the Israelites to take the longer route around this valley. Maybe the king’s refusal was to preserve the precious water he had stored up in their cisterns? This land is full of stories that could take a lifetime to uncover. Today’s adventure certainly raised my curiosity and interest to learn more about this fascinating place that I walked through today.

When we returned to the visitor centre this afternoon, we were looking for a souvenir for our son Adam, which led us to this small store where we met the owner Magid. His shop was without power, which opened up a conversation that went well beyond us spending a few ‘Dina’ in his shop. Magid shared his heart and soul with us, revealing the very dark place of hopelessness he was in and his feeling of despair. We were deeply moved by his story but felt somewhat helpless as we will probably never see him again when we leave Jordan tomorrow. So, I felt prompted in my spirit to promise him that we would pray for this Muslim man from Petra. I asked his permission to take his photo as a reminder for me to fulfil my promise. He seemed somewhat uplifted by this commitment of prayer and asked us to start praying tonight, as he is presently trying to sell some land. He was so grateful for this conversation that he refused to take my money for our purchase and even broke Muslim protocol by reaching out to shake Ness’ hand. He said, “I don’t normally shake the hand of a woman, but there is something different about you.” We left his shop feeling this was a God-ordained encounter and with a sense that His Spirit was present in this encounter.

After dinner, our group assembled for a final time of devotion together. Our leaders Graham led a time of sharing about the highlights of this pilgrimage. After two weeks of travelling the Holy Land, there was much to share; so many experiences, divine encounters, ‘aha’ moments that impacted each one of us in different ways. Yet, something I believe we all share in common is that we will return to our respective appointments different people to who we were before we embarked on this pilgrimage. With just one day left before we depart Amman tomorrow night, we have so much to give thanks for – to God first, and to The Salvation Army for granting us this opportunity.

Holy Land Pilgrimage Journal (Day 13)

Tuesday, 24th September 2019

Once we left our hotel at the Dead Sea, we were on the road pretty much all day today. We followed the Israeli Jordan border all the way down to the Red Sea and crossed at Aqaba. At the border was our first drama for the day. Three of our tour group were pulled up on the Jordan side of the border by customs. It seems their souvenirs purchased in Israel breached Jordanian law. The offending items were a small menorah (a Jewish candelabra). Instead of just confiscating the items, they sent our group back over the Israeli border to dispose of them before letting them through customs. Two of them were actually escorted out by a soldier. You can imagine their stress and anxiety during this ordeal. As a result, we were all held up at the border for over an hour. After finally clearing immigration, we set off on our long journey back up the east side of the border towards the ‘Wadi Rum’ desert. Just before we reached the main highway in Aqaba, a car drove through the wrong side of a roundabout causing drama number two! The bus driver took evasive action, causing the bus to sharply veer onto the opposite side of the road, as he locked up the brakes. Fortunately, we avoided an accident… just! With a few frayed nerves, we continued on through the desert and enjoyed the magnificent views of the barren, rocky mountains.

Our destination was the ‘Wadi Rum’ desert, where we set off for a two-hour jeep ride through the desert. This was the scene for our third drama, which I will get to in a minute. Again, we were confronted by stunning views of the ‘Seven Pillars of Wisdom’, which were featured in the movie ‘Lawrence of Arabia’. This place was a photographer’s paradise with the desert sand against the imposing rock faces and the deep blue sky. 

Halfway through our desert adventure we stopped by a Bedouin village where they provided camel rides. A few of our group jumped at the opportunity for a short camel ride in the desert, when one of our group, Liz, came crashing to the ground when the rope holding the saddle broke. She didn’t seem to be hurt, just a little shaken. During afternoon tea at another nearby Bedouin tent, the shock of the fall hit hard, causing Liz to feel quite ill. She was loaded into one of the vehicles and rushed off to the nearest clinic for medical attention. After a lot of drama and an ambulance ride to the hospital 70 km away, she was cleared of any major injuries. All of this meant we arrived in Petra, our final destination for the day, quite late. We praise God that all three of these incidents only resulted in a bit of inconvenience and discomfort, when you consider how much worse each situation could have been. God’s hand has certainly been upon us today and we have been blessed by the rugged beauty of His mighty creation. Driving through the barrenness also gave us a brief insight into the hot, dry and tough conditions that the Israelites would have journeyed through when they left Egypt during the Exodus. Any wonder they complained so much and wanted to return to Egypt. The vulnerability of this desert space is very real and presents a similar life of challenges for the Bedouin today!

Throughout this pilgrimage, we have been treated to some exceptional accommodation in very fancy hotels. Never before have we stayed in such places! Our hotel in Petra, where we will spend our final two nights is simply beautiful, offering very fine service, facilities and food. We have been so blessed to receive such generous hospitality. It is hard to believe our journey is coming to an end, but we look forward to the final experiences on our itinerary before leaving this intriguing part of the world.

Holy Land Pilgrimage Journal (Day 12)

Monday, 23rd September 2019

After saying farewell to our homestay families, we ventured into the dry and arid Judean countryside, starting with a visit to the ‘Wadi Qelt’ wilderness. This vast wilderness contained the famous road from Jericho to Jerusalem, which was the main thoroughfare to the Holy City. David fled to Jerusalem on this route after Absalom made himself king (2 Samuel 15:23-16:14). King Zedekiah escaped from Nebuchadnezzar’s troops on this road (2 Kings 25:1-6). Jesus walked it many times (Mark 10:46-11:1, Luke 2:39-50). Even the Roman Legion marched on it to destroy Jerusalem in 70 AD. This hilly, arid countryside has a strange beauty looking across it, but no doubt was a brutal journal along the barren, rocky trails.

We continued our journey through this wilderness into the ancient city of Jericho to take a trip up the ‘Mount of Temptation’ in a cable car. Jericho is considered in this region to be the oldest city in the world, dated as 10,000 years old. It is located in the Jordan Valley and is governed by the Palestinian National Authority. The ‘Mount of Temptation’ is the place where Jesus was tempted by Satan after spending 40 days in the wilderness we had just seen. This was a breathtaking journey up the mountain, with quite a steep climb after we disembarked the cable car to a precariously located monastery on the side of the cliff face. For Jesus, I’m tipping it was quite a different journey, both physically and spiritually. I’m actually glad that the last stage to the place of temptation was strenuous and required a lot of effort! It seemed right to be standing in the space where Jesus was tempted, feeling hot from the scorching sun and feeling out of breath from the climb.

We moved from one mountain to another via the Dead Sea, as we made our way to Masada. On our way, we stopped by the ‘Qumran Caves’, which was home to the Essenes and the archaeological site where the ‘Dead Sea Scrolls’ were discovered around 1947. The way this ancient monastic movement carved out a life in the barren wilderness is quite impressive. Not only did they learn to survive as a recluse community in a ‘dry and thirsty land’, but they also disciplined themselves to a life of rituals and deep study as they transcribed the Scriptures to preserve them for this present age. Having seen the ‘Shrine of the Book’ that houses the ‘Dead Sea Scrolls’ in Jerusalem, it was quite amazing to visit the site where they were found today.

Upon our arrival in Masada, we were shown a short video to tell the remarkable story of this epic battle, as recorded by Josephus. Again, this is a story that I was previously unfamiliar with. In brief, a group of Jewish rebels known as the ‘Sicarii’ fled Jerusalem after the destruction of the second temple in 70 AD. They settled on the mountain top of Masada (the previous fortress of Herod the Great around 37-31 BC) after slaughtering the Roman garrison. In 73 AD, the Roman governor Lucas Flavius Silva headed the Roman Legion to lay siege of Masada. The Roman Legion surrounded the fortified mountain and built a siege ramp against the western face of the mountain plateau and used a battering ram to penetrate the massive stone walls. When you stand atop of the plateau and look down the steep rugged cliffs, it is absolutely extraordinary that the Romans considered attempting such a siege, let alone succeeded!! The tragedy and heroism of this story is that the ‘Sicarii’ refused to be taken as slaves by the Romans, so they chose death by enacting an internal murder suicide plot. The ‘Sicarii’ leader gathered his men in the synagogue and gave the following speech:

“Since we long ago resolved never to be servants to the Romans, nor to any other than God himself, who alone is the true and just Lord of mankind, the time is now come that obliges us to make that resolution true in practice … We were the very first that revolted, and we are the last to fight against them; and I cannot but esteem it as a favour that God has granted us, that it is still in our power to die bravely, and in a state of freedom.” (Elazar Ben Yair)

Since Judaism prohibits suicide, Josephus reported that the ‘Sicarii’ had drawn lots and killed each other in turn, down to the last man, who would be the only one to actually take his own life. On one mountain Jesus fought against Satan and overcame his temptations. On the other mountain the ‘Sicarii’ fought against the Roman Legion and took each other’s lives to avoid defeat and slavery. One cannot escape the irony between these two compelling stories from the pages of history that came alive today. The other interesting detail about this part of the journey is that the imposing cliffs of the Masada National Park stand 290 metres above the Dead Sea yet standing on the top of those cliffs looking down on the Dead Sea is only 33 metres above sea level. From this vantage point, you capture just how low the Dead Sea really is as the lowest point on earth.

The Dead Sea is where we ended our day. Once we checked into our hotel, we walked down to the shore of the Dead Sea for an obligatory swim, or should I say, float!? I’ve heard many stories about this experience from other travellers, but it is quite another thing to experience the sensation of floating in the Dead Sea for yourself. It really is a strange sensation being so buoyant in water that contains around 35% salinity (salt content). It requires absolutely no effort at all to stay afloat in the very warm water, but when you try to stand up, it requires an enormous amount of effort. It was indeed an experience! We are so blessed to be staying in another beautiful hotel that offers a bit of luxury for their overseas guests. Never before have we stayed in such places and enjoyed this level of hotel accommodation.

Holy Land Pilgrimage Journal (Day 11)

Sunday, 22nd September 2019

Our final outing in Jerusalem was a return to Old Jerusalem to visit the ‘Dome of the Rock’ on the Temple Mount. I found this part of our pilgrimage somewhat challenging! Having previously learned the history behind the Temple Mount, the destruction of the Temple and the spiritual significance of what remains for the Jewish people, the sight of the Mosque in the place of the Temple Holy of Holies was quite an affront. While I appreciated the architecture of the building, I couldn’t look pass such a sacred sit that was constructed to honour Yahweh being hijacked by the Muslims to honour Allah. All of a sudden, the ‘Wailing Wall’ made sense. I found myself empathising with the anguish of the Jews as they pray daily for redemption and restoration. My empathy is in no way political but spiritual. Behind the complex politics and historical conflict, there is an unavoidable spiritual battle occurring. When two monotheistic religions compete for the same sacred space, no amount of secular diplomacy will resolve this religious tension.

We then left Jerusalem and crossed over the border into the West Bank to visit the ‘Tomb of Lazarus’ and home of Mary and Martha in Bethany. Once again, an elaborate church built on this biblically significant site. On the one hand I find this disappointing, as I would love to see some of these sites in their original context, but on the other hand, I recognise without these historic church structures, these sites would probably have been lost forever centuries ago. Our journey in the West Bank then took us to the ‘Shepherds Field’ where the angels appeared to the shepherds to announce the birth of the Christ child. Inside the chapel we gathered together as a group to sing ‘O Come All Ye Faithful’, surrounded by beautiful paintings of the nativity story, which was later read by Kate Young.

“O come, all ye faithful, joyful and triumphant

O come ye, o come ye to Bethlehem

O come and behold him, born the King of angels

O come, let us adore him…

Christ the Lord.”

From the Shepherds Field, we naturally progressed to the ‘Church of the Nativity’, which houses the very place where Jesus was born. There was a sense of wonder and awe as we each stepped through the low opening through the front wall of the church (apparently, this is a deliberate design of the Crusade period to stop people riding into the church on their horses). Once inside the church, I felt a little overwhelmed by all the religious icons, statues and art paying homage to Mary and the Christ child. As beautiful as many of these pieces were, especially the gold mosaic uncovered only two years ago, it felt a little over the top for me, taking away from the humble origins of Jesus’ birth. We queued up for what felt like an eternity to descend into the cave of the ritual site of Jesus’ birth and apparent location of the real manger. It was a special moment to stand in this space, yet all the religious trappings just got in the way for me, diminishing this unique opportunity. I really wanted to be deeply impacted by the birthplace of Christ but instead, I was distracted: Distracted by the ornate fixtures, distracted by the crowd jostling of position, distracted by the religiosity of the whole set-up. I am very grateful for the privilege of such an experience, but it somehow took away from the image of the nativity scene that had formed in my mind.

The final stop for the day presented us with more artwork but of a very different nature. In a strange way, it spoke to me more of the nativity than the church did. I’m referring to the powerful and provocative artwork that lines the security/separation wall that divides Israel from the West Bank. This artwork presents the soul of a people who have been segregated from the world around them. The politics involved in the West Bank emerge out of centuries of conflict that divides the Jewish and Muslim faiths. Outside of the politics are a people who yearn for a different reality. The Palestinians we met want peace and goodwill for all humankind. Their desires and dreams of peace emerges from the art that lines the wall that separates these two states.

How appropriate that we ended our day staying with a Palestinian Christian family in a homestay arrangement. This provided us with a fabulous opportunity to get up close and personal with a family living this reality. Basam and Kawkab embraced us very warmly and together with their children shared something of their lives with us. Life in the West Bank presents many challenges, yet there is a deep national pride and a strong sense of community in Beit Sahour where they live. Coincidently, there was a street festival happening during our stay called ‘Souq Hikaya’, which means ‘Story Market’. It was a vibrant and joyful celebration of their culture and city. I must confess that before our homestay, my experience inside the West Bank wasn’t all that pleasant with pushy and aggressive peddlers trying to exploit tourists. But, at this festival, I saw Palestinians in their natural state enjoying life and extending very warm hospitality. There were no strings attached to the greetings and handshakes and you felt welcomed in their city. While these Palestinians longed for a different reality, there was a sense of pride and contentment with who they are as a people. Staying with this family was definitely a highlight of our trip.

Holy Land Pilgrimage Journal (Day 10)

Saturday, 21st September 2019

Today was a complete change of pace with a free day to explore Jerusalem on our own. After a bit of a sleep-in, a small group of us set off for Old Jerusalem through the ‘forbidden’ Damascus Gate (our guide advised against using this gate to avoid pick pocketers and aggressive peddlers). One of the rebellious traits of Australians is that if you tell us we can’t do something, it is received as an invitation to push the boundaries and do it anyway! It was kind of funny that more than half of the tour group ignored the advice and went through the Damascus Gate anyway. Though, we did so exercising caution with the foreknowledge we received.

With an incident free entry to the Old City, we weaved our way through the narrow market streets of the Christian Quarter. These streets were a vibrant expression of colours and textures with an array of aromas permeating from the street stalls. From the beautiful fabrics and ancient artefacts to the local produce, the richness of Jewish and Palestinian culture was on full display. One of the things I particularly enjoyed today was the freedom to go wherever these sights, smells and sounds led and to just linger in these ordinary, everyday spaces, engaging with some very interesting people. It was the accidental encounters along the way that made the day so interesting. While waiting for one from our group, a little photography shop opened, revealing some stunning black and white photography of Jerusalem from the 1920’s. The third-generation owner of the shop showed us an extraordinary image of a shepherd and his sheep by a river. When you turn the photo upside down, you see the same shepherd with only a single sheep reflection on the water. The photo has been connected with the Scripture about the lost sheep.

The owner of another shop selling antiquities offered us tea and shared some very interesting stories behind some of the pieces from Syria. He was more concerned about extending to us his hospitality than pushing his products. Hidden among the stalls was a delightful little café that looked like it was in a cave with the limestone walls and curved ceiling. Most importantly, the double espresso I ordered was on point! Our lunch stop was at the Christ Church Coffee Shop & Courtyard, where we ordered a Mediterranean style pizza and took joy in supporting this local Christian church in Jerusalem. On our way out of the Old City, we walked through the Armenian Quarter, where we bumped into our tour guide. As an Armenian Jew, he enthusiastically invited us into the Armenian Patriarchate of Jerusalem where he shared with us some of their history.

We left the Old City through the ‘Zion Gate’ and made our way down to visit Oskar Schindler’s grave. After visiting the Holocaust Museum, the other day, it was a site I really wanted to visit. His grave was simple but adorned with stones from visitors as a Jewish custom of respect and honour for this great man. Our day concluded with a visit to the American Colony Hotel, which was established by Horatio Spafford, the composer of the hymn ‘It is Well’. This historical setting was a beautiful backdrop to finish off a very enjoyable day.

“When peace like a river, attendeth my way,

When sorrows like sea billows roll

Whatever my lot, thou hast taught me to say

It is well, it is well with my soul.”

As we prepare to leave Jerusalem and venture back into the West Bank tomorrow, it is fitting to say, “It is well with my soul.”

Holy Land Pilgrimage Journal (Day 9)

Friday, 20th September 2019

This morning, we ventured back into the Old City of Jerusalem through the ‘Dung Gate’ to visit the ‘Western Wall’ and its tunnels to explore the foundations of the original western side of the ‘Temple Mount’. This was a fascinating journey into one of the most sacred spaces of Judaism. As we learned about the historical significance of the Western Wall as the only really visible and accessible wall of the Temple Mount that survived the Roman destruction of the Temple and Muslim occupation, you get a sense why Jews choose to pray at this space. Their prayers at this section of wall are a longing for redemption and renewal of Israel. I couldn’t help but feel their longing and anguish as the Muslim prayers rang out over the loudspeakers from the Islamic ‘Golden Dome of the Rock’ built on top of the Jewish Temple Mount. Regardless of where you sit in this space politically, the clash of two monotheistic religions in the Holy place is very real. Given Judaism is the historical and religious roots of Christianity, there is a natural empathy for the Jewish longing for redemption. The tunnels of the Western Wall were a fascinating and enlightening journey, literally down the stony pathways of history. The realisation in one section of the tunnel that you were walking on original paving from the second temple period (516 BC – 70 AD) was surreal. I must confess that I was probably more intrigued by the engineering and architecture of the Temple Mount from than the religious significance (though, I did engage with that too). The sheer size and weight of the stones used to construct this wall was impressive. It any wonder that it is still standing today!

Once we left the tunnels, we were given the opportunity to pray at the Western Wall (men on one side and women on the other). I found this to be an interesting exercise that did conflict a little with my spirit. The sight of countless prayers written on pieces of paper folded and stuffed into the cracks between the rocks was somewhat sad. The spiritual significance of the wall has moved into a mystical space for many religious people who see the wall as possessing some sort of power. Even so, I stepped up to the wall and prayed, not to bricks and mortar, but to the Cornerstone of my faith, Jesus Christ, who is the Rock upon which His Church is built. The wall itself doesn’t hold the same significance for me as the ‘Temple’ of spiritual significance for me is the one the Holy Spirit establishes within the lives of those who put their faith in Jesus Christ.

“Consequently, you are no longer foreigners and strangers, but fellow citizens with God’s people and also members of his household, built on the foundation of the Apostles and Prophets, with Christ Jesus himself as the Chief Cornerstone. In him the whole building is joined together and rises to become a holy temple in the Lord. And in him you too are being built together to become a dwelling in which God lives by his Spirit.” (Ephesians 2:19-22)

This is the indestructible ‘Temple of God’ and Jesus is the Cornerstone to whom I pray for the redemption and restoration of His people.

From the Western Wall we visited the ‘Burnt House’ (Katros House) and a high priest mansion that gave us an insight into the dwelling places of the upper class in the city of Jerusalem. Again, I found the architecture and social family structures fascinating. These sorts of visits help to create a clearer picture of the society and world in which Jesus lived and ministered. This would have been the sort of house the High Priest Caiaphas would have owned, where Jesus was brought to and accused. The class distinction between a humble carpenter’s home and that of the high priest would have been stark.

After lunch, we left the Jerusalem walls of the Old City to visit the ‘City of David’. This was indeed a fascinating trip that also focused on the second temple period. It is archaeologically known for its Canaanite infrastructure dated to the Middle Bronze Age, and its newer structures from the Iron Age, built by Judean kings. This site offered contrasting views from David’s palace over a neighbourhood of Silwan, a Palestinian Arab village, intertwined with an Israeli settlement, to underground views of King Hezekiah’s water tunnels that would have sustained the city. These tunnels are a complex labyrinth of limestone passages that weave through the side of the mountain, providing channels for the underground spring of fresh water. The tunnels exit once flowed into the ‘Pool of Siloam’, which is the place where Jesus healed the blind man and possible place where the 3000 saved at Pentecost were baptised.

Finally, we ended the day at the Garden Tomb, which is another possible location for the burial of Jesus. This stunning location provided a view of a cliff face believed to be Golgotha, the place of the skull. A close look at the structure of the cliff shows some caves that resemble the face of a skull. Although, erosion and ground movement in recent years is diminishing this appearance. While there is no definitive proof which site is the actual tomb of Jesus, the location and geographic features of this site seems to better fit the biblical narrative than the site of the Holy Sepulchre. Walking inside the tomb was a powerful experience being inside the space where the body of Jesus may have laid. Yet, the fact that the tomb is empty is where the real power lies, because we worship a resurrected Lord! The simplicity of the tomb and beauty of the garden manipulates our desire for this to be the place rather than the opulence of a man-made structure. We concluded the day with a beautiful communion service in the garden which allowed us each to sit and engage with our resurrected Lord in this sacred space. In these moments, the words of our guide range true, “It’s not the site but the event that is important.” Knowing where the actual tomb is located is of little consequence to my faith, whereas, knowing that the resurrection actually happened is of eternal consequence and significance. It was a precious time for each of us and a very fitting way to end a full and rich day.

Holy Land Pilgrimage Journal (Day 8)

Thursday, 19th September 2019

This morning, we visited the 'Holocaust Museum' in Jerusalem. Knowing this was our destination evoked a whole lot of emotions within me that led to uncontrollable weeping on the bus, even before we arrived. I anticipated the museum would have an impact but was caught off-guard emotionally on the bus trip. One would expect an emotional response to the atrocities of Nazi Germany because of our shared humanity. But for me, today was personal, because of my family heritage. My great-grandfather, Wilhelm Alert Peter Bredemeyer, is German and fled to Australia during the second world war as an illegal immigrant. His two brothers, Albert and Horst, were gassed by the Nazis in the concentration camps. Albert was sent to Dachau and Horst was sent to Slozenburgh. So, I exist today because my great-grandfather left his brothers and escaped these atrocities! Therefore, moving through this poignant memorial had a very profound impact upon me, touching the core of my being. The images, stories, names, artefacts, reveal some very dark pages of our history that exposes the very worse of our humanity. 6,000,000 Jews lost their lives because of the ideology of one man who convinced a nation of their racial and religious superiority. This memorial stands as a reminder and as a warning. Yet, I fear that we are dangerously close to the conditions that led to the Holocaust in some parts of our world today!

We then moved from one museum to another with a visit to the ‘Israel Museum’ which houses the 'Dead Sea Scrolls', among other significant cultural artefacts. But the exhibition that captured my attention immediately as we walked through the entrances was an extraordinary scale model of the Old City of Jerusalem (1/4” – 1’) in the second temple period. The model measures 1,000 square metres and is made entirely from limestone and marble with stunning detail. The centre housing the Dead Sea Scrolls is known as the ‘Shrine of the Book’ and is a fascinating piece of architecture and engineering in the shape of a large white dome. It is an impressive building displaying ancient artefacts relating to the scrolls, including the lids of the jars in which the first scrolls were discovered at Qumran in 1947.

Our afternoon then took us across the border into the West Bank to visit Bethlehem in the Palestinian territory. The high border walls are testament to the conflict and mistrust between these two groups of people. The contrast between Israel and this part of Palestine is hard to ignore in the civic management of these two regions. The perpetual state of conflict between these two nations and the imposing barrier of an eight metre concrete wall has clearly had an adverse effect on the Palestinian people. The territory around Bethlehem, where we travelled today, is poorly kept and we found the people we encountered on the street suspicious of our presence and somewhat aggressive, seeing us as someone to exploit. I personally felt a mixture of sadness and disappointment by what I encountered in Bethlehem today. Despite this, we did meet some lovely Palestinian Christians at the Bethlehem Bible College when we attended a lecture by Salim Munyer, co-author of a book titled, ‘Through My Enemy’s Eyes – Envisioning Reconciliation in Israel-Palestine’. He spoke about the history behind the conflict and cast a vision for a new reality of peace. It was very interesting and challenging to hear a Palestinian perspective about the conflict. At the end of his lecture Salim said, “Christians need to call both sides to reconciliation with God and with each other.” 

Today really challenged my emotions and my thinking. Have we really learned from the Holocaust? Is there any difference between the segregation of the Jews in WW2 and the wall that segregates the Palestinians today? Are we recreating similar conditions that will/could lead this region down a similar pathway to Nazi Germany? To some, these might seem like outrageous questions, but to me there are present day warning signs that cannot be ignored if we don’t wish to repeat history. I know the political and cultural circumstances between Israel and Palestine are complex, but the fragility of this region deserves/demands a better way forward. The words I read today by a 14 year old boy who was killed in an Aushwitz gas chamber should speak into this present conflict, offering a plea for a better future by Jewish and Palestinian children alike:

“When I will be 20 years old,

In a motorised bird I’ll sit,

And to the reaches of space I’ll rise.

I will fly,

I will float to the beautiful faraway world

And skywards I will soar.

The cloud my sister will be

The wind is brother to me.

I will fly,

I will float over rivers and seas.

I will marvel at the Euphrates and Nile.

I will gaze at the Sphinx and Pyramids

In the goddess Isis’ ancient land.

I will glide over the mighty Niagra Falls,

And soak up the warmth of the Sahara’s sun

Over the cloud-covered Tibetan peaks will I ascend,

Above the mysterious magic land of the Hindus.

And when extricated from the sun’s heat,

I will take wing to the Arctic North,

And I will whir above the giant kangaroo isle,

And then over the ruins of Pompeii.

From there I’ll set my sights to the Holy Land,

Where our covenant was given.

I will even reach the illustrious Homer’s country,

And will be so amazed by the beauty of this world.

To the heavens I will take off.

The cloud my sister will be

The wind is brother to me.”

(Written by Abramek Koplowicz)

This dream from the past shines hope into the present. If a 14 year old Jewish boy can dare to dream from a concentration camp in Germany, then maybe a 14 year old girl can dare to dream from behind a wall in the West Bank. As I read this poem, the words of Nella Fantasia began to echo in my mind as it too speaks of a similar dream for humanity…

“Nella fantasia ip vedo un mondo giusto,

Li tutti vivono in pace e in onesta.

Lo sogno d’aime che sono sempre libere,

Come le nuvole che volano,

Pian’ d’umanita in fondo all’anima.”

(Italian)

“In my fantasy I see a just world,

Where everyone lives in peace and honesty.

I dream of souls that are always free

Like the clouds that float

Full of humanity in the depths of the soul.”

(English Translation)

In poetry and in song the dream remains the same for shalom to prevail for all of God’s children in all nations on earth!

Holy Land Pilgrimage Journal (Day 7)

Wednesday, 18th September 2019

Today, our pilgrimage took us into the Old City of Jerusalem via the Palm Sunday route from the 'Mount of Olives'. We commenced our journey at the ‘Church of the Pater Noster’ located on the Mount of Olives, which is the traditional site where Jesus taught the disciples how to pray (the Lord’s prayer). As we moved through this church, the walls were lined with renditions of ‘The Lord’s Prayer’ in almost every language you could think of. It was quite a blessing listening to different cultural groups gather around their particular language board to recite the prayer in their mother tongue. I was somewhat disappointed not to find one written in Pijin English. However, I was able to photograph the Indonesian board for our dear friends Majors Nyoman & Suni Timonuli.

“Dadi bong mifala long heven,

Nem blong yu nao hemi mas stap bikfala.

Yu mekem kingdom blong yu fo kam.

Yu mekem wanem yu laekem nomoa

Fo hapen long disfala wol,

Olsem wea hemi hapen long heven.

Yu givim kam kaikai wea hemi

Fitim mifala fo tude.

Yu fogivim mifala long olketa

Ravis samting wea mifala duim,

Olsem mifala tu forgivim olketa

Hu I duim olketa ravis samting long mifala.

Yu no letem enikaen samting

Kam lo traem mifala,

Bat yu sevem mifala from paoa blong seitan.”

(Matthew 6:9-13, Solomon Islands Pijin Bible)

As we continued along our journey, we got our first glimpse of the Holy City, which was stunning. Seeing photos online is one thing but standing on the Mount of Olives looking down on Jerusalem is quite another. Next stop was the ‘Dominus Flevit Church’. This is the traditional site where Jesus wept over Jerusalem on His way towards His ‘Triumphal Entry’ into the Holy City.

Further down the Mount of Olives was the 'Garden of Gethsemane' and the 'Basilica of Gethsemane'. As spectacular as the beautifully decorated basilica was, I was more drawn to the olive tree lined garden. The arid garden connected me more with the anguish of Christ than the ornate church sanctuary. There in the garden among the 2000 year old olive trees, I imagined myself waiting and watching with the disciples while Jesus prayed. This garden is truly a sacred space that exposed the intersection between Christ’s humanity and divinity.

“Lest I forget Gethsemane

Lest I forget thine agony

Lest I forget thy love for me

Lead me to Calvary.”

Finally, as we left the Mount of Olives, we entered the Old City of Jerusalem through the Lion’s Gate. There was a tangible sense of excitement and anticipation as we entered the ancient walls of Jerusalem. I even think someone in our group started singing, ‘Jerusalem, Jerusalem’. Our first stop inside the gate was the 'Pool of Bethesda' where Jesus healed the paralysed man who begged by the pool daily. The stone infrastructure of this pool that was still standing was quite amazing. Alongside the Pool of Bethesda is the 'Church of Saint Anne'. This beautiful church offered extraordinary acoustics which have become quite an attraction for touring groups to assemble at the sanctuary to sing. The sound of music pouring out of this church really is something to hear. We even waited our turn before assembling at the front of the church to sing ‘I Love You Lord’ and ‘We are Standing on Holy Ground’. It was another awe-inspiring moment. Yet, again, I found myself with a conflict in my spirit. Somehow this beautiful attraction seemed to draw people’s attention away from the wonder of the healing beside the Pool of Bethesda. A small sign beside the pool that declared the power of Jesus seemed to be overshadowed by the echo of voices inside the church. This feeling was further punctuated as I walked down the stairs to the basement below the church that is considered by Catholics to be the birthplace of Mary. The birthplace of ‘Our Lady’ seemed to be a greater attraction than the healing place of ‘Our Lord’. I don’t mean to be cynical or overtly critical, but I can’t help the way I felt.

Other sites visited inside the Holy City as we walked the 'Via Dolorosa' include the 'Struthion Pool' before the 'Convent of the Sisters of Zion', the 'Upper Room of the Last Supper' and 'King David’s Tomb'; all of which offered memorable moments. But the one space I want to comment on is the 'Church of the Holy Sepulchre', the place of the crucifixion and the tomb of Jesus Christ. I’m certain for many pilgrims this would be the pinnacle or defining moment of visiting the Holy City (the crowds alone certainly suggest this). In many ways, that was my hope and expectation for myself. Yet, that was far from my experience. Our visit to the Holy Sepulchre was a melee of religious pilgrims scrambling for a glimpse or touch of the elaborate and ornate icons representing the death and resurrection of Jesus Christ. The crowds were simply overwhelming and the jostling for position almost sacrilegious. As much as I wanted to just linger in this most sacred space, I was too distracted and disorientated by the chaos around me. And our well-meaning guide didn’t help matters as he seemed more concerned ushering us around the crowd from on spot to another than allowing us to simple be present and encounter God’s presence. Beyond the ‘WOW’ factor of the extraordinary architecture and rich history that surrounded us, I was sadly spiritually underwhelmed! We are going to try and revisit the Holy Sepulchre on our free day at a much earlier hour before the tour groups arrive and see whether that provides us with a different experience.

Holy Land Pilgrimage Journal (Day 6)

Tuesday, 17th September 2019

This morning, we checked out of the Sea of Galilee Hotel and made our way towards Jerusalem. Our first stop along the way was at the hilltop city of Megiddo, which overlooks the Jezreel Valley. The ruins of this ancient city were simply amazing, giving you an historic insight into the period. Megiddo is widely considered to be the Armageddon of the New Testament where the final battle to the end of the world. One of the impressive features of this city (apart from a breathtaking view of the valley) was Ahab’s tunnel. This tunnel was dug to connect the heavily fortified city to underground springs that lay outside the city gate. That way, the occupants could access fresh water without leaving their gates and out of sight of their enemies. Genius!! There was also an underground grain store with stairs leading in and out to ensure the community had access to an ample supply of food. Another example of clever civil engineering.

From this impressive city, we drove to Mount Carmel where Elijah confronted the Prophets of Baal in the Old Testament. I was given the privilege of reading the story from 1 Kings 18:16-39 in a garden courtyard alongside a rather intimidating statue of the prophet Elijah. While reading this Scripture, the rest of our group noticed a cross in the background. Elijah’s prayer…

“Lord, God of Abraham, Isaac and Israel, let it be known today that you are God in Israel and that I am your servant and have done all these things at your command. Answer me, Lord, answer me, so these people will know that you, Lord, are God, and that you are turning their hearts back again” (1 Kings 18:36-37).

Reading this Scripture in such a location was truly an awe-inspiring moment! What added to the moment was the rumbling of military aircraft engines in the distant background. It almost sounded like thunder in the distance. Following this reading, I invited our group to sing together the chorus ‘Be Still’…

“Be still, for the presence of the Lord, the Holy One is here.

Come bow before Him now with reverence and fear.

In Him no sin is found. We stand on holy ground.

Be still, for the presence of the Lord, the Holy One is here.

Be Still, for the glory of the Lord is shining all around.

He burns with holy fire; with splendour He is crowned.

How awesome is the sight, our radiant King of Light.

Be still, for the glory of the Lord is shining all around.

“Be still, for the power of the Lord is moving in this place.

He comes to cleanse and heal, to minister His grace.

No work too hard for Him. In faith, receive from Him.

Be still, for the power of the Lord is moving in this place.”

This was truly a mountain top experience in every way! I never imagined in my life ever being able to stand in the same space as the prophet Elijah and read a part of his story in the very place it happened. I’ve always connected with God on the top of mountains but today was something special that I’ll always remember.

As we passed through Haifa, we made a brief stop at the Bahai Temple and Garden. The view across the city was amazing and the Bahai Gardens were beautiful. However, I really did wonder the relevance and appropriateness of such a stop on the “Footsteps of Jesus” Holy Land Tour?! Personally, I would have much rather stop at the Elijah Cave while passing through Haifa. Nevertheless, I am grateful for the journey.

The journey along the coastline of the Mediterranean Sea, before turning inland to Jerusalem, offered some amazing Roman architecture with views of the Roman Aqueduct in Caesarea and the Roman Theatre at the Caesarea National Park. Among the ruins of the Roman Theatre, we paused to read from Acts 25:1-12, when Paul stood accused before Festus and boldly defended himself by saying, “I appeal to Caesar.” Once again standing in the very location where these Scriptures happened is quite amazing.

Our final stop for the day, before reaching Jerusalem, was at Jaffa. Apart from the biblical significance of Jaffa (aka Joppa) being the place where Jonah ran from God (Jonah 1:3) and where Peter had a vision and met with Cornelius (Acts 10:9-23), this was an absolutely delightful city. The European influence is unmistakable in the Middle Eastern architecture and cultural interaction in street markets and cafes along the esplanade. We were given some welcomed free time (not enough) to explore the beauty of this delightful setting. Of course, I found a quaint little café where I took the opportunity to order a double espresso, which didn’t disappoint! I would definitely return to Jaffa if I ever had the opportunity, to take in every part of this city. Oh yeah, the view of Tel Aviv was spectacular also!!

We drove into Jerusalem after sunset and checked into our second hotel for the trip – ‘The Olive Tree Hotel’ – which is gorgeous! From the ancient Judo-Roman décor to the olive tree in the middle of an elaborate dining room, then the personalised greeting on the TV monitor in our room, this place is something special. I think we are going to really enjoy the next five nights in this accommodation. It’s been a long, full day, but a blessed day. We look forward to getting out and about to explore some of the significant places where Jesus actually walked.