Wednesday, 18th September 2019
Today, our pilgrimage took us into the Old City of Jerusalem via the Palm Sunday route from the 'Mount of Olives'. We commenced our journey at the ‘Church of the Pater Noster’ located on the Mount of Olives, which is the traditional site where Jesus taught the disciples how to pray (the Lord’s prayer). As we moved through this church, the walls were lined with renditions of ‘The Lord’s Prayer’ in almost every language you could think of. It was quite a blessing listening to different cultural groups gather around their particular language board to recite the prayer in their mother tongue. I was somewhat disappointed not to find one written in Pijin English. However, I was able to photograph the Indonesian board for our dear friends Majors Nyoman & Suni Timonuli.
“Dadi bong mifala long heven,
Nem blong yu nao hemi mas stap bikfala.
Yu mekem kingdom blong yu fo kam.
Yu mekem wanem yu laekem nomoa
Fo hapen long disfala wol,
Olsem wea hemi hapen long heven.
Yu givim kam kaikai wea hemi
Fitim mifala fo tude.
Yu fogivim mifala long olketa
Ravis samting wea mifala duim,
Olsem mifala tu forgivim olketa
Hu I duim olketa ravis samting long mifala.
Yu no letem enikaen samting
Kam lo traem mifala,
Bat yu sevem mifala from paoa blong seitan.”
(Matthew 6:9-13, Solomon Islands Pijin Bible)
As we continued along our journey, we got our first glimpse of the Holy City, which was stunning. Seeing photos online is one thing but standing on the Mount of Olives looking down on Jerusalem is quite another. Next stop was the ‘Dominus Flevit Church’. This is the traditional site where Jesus wept over Jerusalem on His way towards His ‘Triumphal Entry’ into the Holy City.
Further down the Mount of Olives was the 'Garden of Gethsemane' and the 'Basilica of Gethsemane'. As spectacular as the beautifully decorated basilica was, I was more drawn to the olive tree lined garden. The arid garden connected me more with the anguish of Christ than the ornate church sanctuary. There in the garden among the 2000 year old olive trees, I imagined myself waiting and watching with the disciples while Jesus prayed. This garden is truly a sacred space that exposed the intersection between Christ’s humanity and divinity.
“Lest I forget Gethsemane
Lest I forget thine agony
Lest I forget thy love for me
Lead me to Calvary.”
Finally, as we left the Mount of Olives, we entered the Old City of Jerusalem through the Lion’s Gate. There was a tangible sense of excitement and anticipation as we entered the ancient walls of Jerusalem. I even think someone in our group started singing, ‘Jerusalem, Jerusalem’. Our first stop inside the gate was the 'Pool of Bethesda' where Jesus healed the paralysed man who begged by the pool daily. The stone infrastructure of this pool that was still standing was quite amazing. Alongside the Pool of Bethesda is the 'Church of Saint Anne'. This beautiful church offered extraordinary acoustics which have become quite an attraction for touring groups to assemble at the sanctuary to sing. The sound of music pouring out of this church really is something to hear. We even waited our turn before assembling at the front of the church to sing ‘I Love You Lord’ and ‘We are Standing on Holy Ground’. It was another awe-inspiring moment. Yet, again, I found myself with a conflict in my spirit. Somehow this beautiful attraction seemed to draw people’s attention away from the wonder of the healing beside the Pool of Bethesda. A small sign beside the pool that declared the power of Jesus seemed to be overshadowed by the echo of voices inside the church. This feeling was further punctuated as I walked down the stairs to the basement below the church that is considered by Catholics to be the birthplace of Mary. The birthplace of ‘Our Lady’ seemed to be a greater attraction than the healing place of ‘Our Lord’. I don’t mean to be cynical or overtly critical, but I can’t help the way I felt.
Other sites visited inside the Holy City as we walked the 'Via Dolorosa' include the 'Struthion Pool' before the 'Convent of the Sisters of Zion', the 'Upper Room of the Last Supper' and 'King David’s Tomb'; all of which offered memorable moments. But the one space I want to comment on is the 'Church of the Holy Sepulchre', the place of the crucifixion and the tomb of Jesus Christ. I’m certain for many pilgrims this would be the pinnacle or defining moment of visiting the Holy City (the crowds alone certainly suggest this). In many ways, that was my hope and expectation for myself. Yet, that was far from my experience. Our visit to the Holy Sepulchre was a melee of religious pilgrims scrambling for a glimpse or touch of the elaborate and ornate icons representing the death and resurrection of Jesus Christ. The crowds were simply overwhelming and the jostling for position almost sacrilegious. As much as I wanted to just linger in this most sacred space, I was too distracted and disorientated by the chaos around me. And our well-meaning guide didn’t help matters as he seemed more concerned ushering us around the crowd from on spot to another than allowing us to simple be present and encounter God’s presence. Beyond the ‘WOW’ factor of the extraordinary architecture and rich history that surrounded us, I was sadly spiritually underwhelmed! We are going to try and revisit the Holy Sepulchre on our free day at a much earlier hour before the tour groups arrive and see whether that provides us with a different experience.
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